The Basics of Classic Car Maintenance – Fluids

First, we will see petrol and diesel, besides the obvious fact that you have enough of your trip, it’s worth checking the fuel system at least once a year, diesel, since it has the used to find shapes and holes than most other liquids because if it leaks, a hot surface or sparks can cause gas and not an explosion, I know I’ve been there with carburetors leak dripping onto the exhaust pipe.

Check the fuel tank, even in old cars of all, it is made from stamped sheet steel is subject to corrosion especially where straps or bindings are. Take a good look at the bubbles or spots with wet / dark look and check to see if the fuel gauge moves a lot at regular intervals while the car is parked. Next check the pipe, again many cars had steel tubes with subsequent replacements be copper or plastic (plastic are particularly vulnerable to hot exhaust pipes as many manufacturers ran two tubes near the other thing!)

I hope someone will have a fuel filter mounted under the hood to prevent any debris or rust and carburetors range blocks. Looked help indicate corrosion of the tank and piping that may be present in order to replace it after the repair of these to give you a clean slate. For the engine fuel filter will not be clear but it is likely to look like an oil filter.

Also check the fuel pump to run (easier if electric) by connecting an AC outlet of the hose to a can of gasoline, caution here that electricity and vapor are combined, and see that the pump continues to run with the contact.

And finally, with contact / or the motor on and off to check the carburetor (s) for all / dark wet spots especially around where the fuel lines are attached carbohydrates. Alternatively check the injection pump and interconnecting piping and nozzles cylinder head.

As standard advice is always important to check the level of cooling water, but there are other things to check for. Note that this is not so important if the cooling system the water level must adapt and find a natural level is filled. Even if you have the radiator cap or filling the car, it is helpful to examine the color. A clean cooling water and antifreeze should be slightly blue or green corrosion inhibitor.

If the water is brown, it is corrosion or rust on the system, a certain amount this happens as a matter of course expected. If the water is cloudy or you are unsure, it may be useful for water drainage, washing and filling through the new water and antifreeze. This should be checked again after a few days or 50 miles or more to see if the problem has been corrected.

If the water has a fat or rainbow glitter to be further investigated, as it can be bad news. Sometimes it is only the different components of natural oils that leach when new, such as lubricants used in pumps or sealants when used. However, it can be a sign that there is a more serious problem and lubricating engine oil is getting into the cooling system and large engine failure can not be far away, I hope to check the engine oil should help to indicate this.

It is recommended that the cooling water can change each year, but I found very few years is often enough because of my low mileage classic cars do.

Engine lubricating oil is again necessary for engine operation. It is important to ensure that neither too much nor too little. If there is minimal damage to the engine can be dry and even take advantage, if too much oil can spread and increase the pressure in the lower parts of the engine and possibly damage the crankshaft and pistons. For this reason it is very important to make sure you get the meter right into your motor, motors of the same type may have different strips, as they can vary in how they are constructed or how the oil circulates, see your local club or specialist conventional car.

Also, if it is possible to ensure that the oil has been used as faster require different thicknesses and different look modern engine oils larger motors or engines.

Typical places for oil leaks in classic cars
• The plug (bottom of the engine), drain if used, not tight or copper washer in the hardest time. Sometimes the seal leaks, the symptoms are usually larger and sometimes lack the casing can break, especially with steel or cast aluminum crankcase.
• The rocker cover, if the joint has hardened (often cork on older cars), tighter or underinsured. These leaks are usually easily resolved by installing a new seal.
• The rear end of the crankshaft (where the flywheel and clutch are fixed) due to worn seals (and are generally poor say manufacturers designs). This leak is very common do not worry if a large amount of oil is lost and is also having problems with the clutch. This oil leak is very useful for lining the bottom of your car against the face of rust, but should aim to have fixed the leak.
• Oil filter due to poor fitting joints sounding tired or just lazy. Again, these leaks are easily arranged.

If your engine has an oil leak from elsewhere, it’s probably not good news so check with a specialist. Another valuable article on regular oil changes is the oil filler cap, as they often contain break and wire mesh filters that can get dirty and allow more pressure oil circuit.

Things to look for in the engine oil:
• If you have the consistency of cold molasses sound is overdue for an oil change
• If it looks too dark, time for a new oil change
• If you have lumps, oil changes and rinsing should be done at least
• If she has a lot of white cream / brown or “mayonnaise” and a change could be due, but it is also a symptom of a failure of the head gasket that allows coolant in the oil creating the “mayonnaise”. Sometimes, however, small amounts of it can be formed by condensation if the car has been sitting for long periods.

Oil should be changed at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer mileage, but if you do fewer miles each year and annually thereafter is recommended. Often the oil filter is changed every well because I still do not know the history of the past if the engine can be traces of wear on the oil change system.

While oil will now go through the lubricating oil frame rate, including rear axle oil for rear wheel drive vehicles. This should not need to change or recharge often unless you have a leak, and leaks in the rear axles are very common, but usually not large enough to affect you too. Many classic cars provide additional access to reach plugs for gearboxes and axles to the owner’s manual can be noted, but may require the removal of the carpet and / or the back seat. Another advantage is in some post-war classic cars is that some transmissions have their own bands, a feature that has disappeared as transmissions have become more reliable.

Although the oils should not be changed regularly always helps control annual level or when you suspect a leak or make a noise. Note that whining rear differential is quite common and is often just wear rather than lack of lubrication.

Certainly for the rear axle, you can connect a key need for specialist housing. As the engine and the transmission shaft may require oils according to their age. Some older boxes are happy with the speed of engine oil and gearbox oil gear specialist later use, often used in warmer climates.

The oil content is more difficult to check here especially to the available light, but you can look for:
• If you have the consistency of cold molasses sound is overdue for an oil change
• If she has many “mayonnaise” white and a change could be due, but it is also a symptom of condensation if the car has been sitting for long periods.
You may feel more comfortable to change the oil in all cases, if you know what you started.

Brake fluid – now you obviously want to make sure you have enough so that you can stop when you need to, but what many people do not understand is that the brake fluid may deteriorate and corrosion caused by brake components separated and loss of strength in the wheels when the brake pedal is pressed.

It is worth checking the brake fluid level monthly for 3 which has not changed much, except for a drop in the level is a sign of worn pads / shoes a sharp drop in the level could be a brake signal leakage. A drop in the level should be avoided due to the above, but also because it may allow the air in the system reduces braking efficiency air more readily than the brake fluid compressed.

When bleeding brakes the following things to look for:
• bubbles could be a sign of a leak which allows air in the fluid and
• Color Black, a sign of various corrosive components, especially steel pipes
• Bits, another sign of corrosion

When one of these cases, it is advisable to check all components and replace those that are identified as defective. It is also helpful to keep the bleeding to go to the trouble (s) disappear as the contamination of the brake fluid may still retained in the parties.

Another problem with the brake components is external corrosion that can carry hoses and leak, or combined with the rust that will require all components to replace corroded. Here are some copper grease can hold off, and if you try to keep the rubber plugs / plastic nipples land bleeds.

One of the weakest points of the braking systems are hoses connecting the wheel brake to allow movement of the suspension. Apart from perishing and splitting can also suffer tread that makes the weak and prone to expansion under pressure walls, so that the force from the brake pedal is used in pipes rather than the wheel cylinders or stirrups. Often, with external steel braided hoses are available which reduces this risk, but are only good when they are clean and free of corrosion.

Although the above list is an overview should be enough to get started and help you gain confidence in their own achievement and maintenance over time to deal with more complex tasks parts replacement car.

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